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How is it possible that in all the games we have been to, neither Rob nor I has ever come across a theme night as simple and rich as Christmas in July? Is this bad luck on our part or a case of genuine innovation by the Indians? Either way, they went to town with it on a steamy Friday night—pity those elves and snowmen in their felt, wool, and polyester outfits....
We had sweltered through an afternoon meal at the averagely average Great Lakes Brewery on the West Side and spent some time getting oriented: Cleveland seems, well, a little too big, geographically. But it's got topography, bridges, some cool architecture, and even tolerable bus rapid transit.
We got to Progressive Field a bit earlier than usual and so had time to walk the whole way around and visit the "legends" area in centerfield, which was surprisingly well done. Dave Burba was there signing autographs for kids who had no idea who he was, but what the hell, he went 16-6 in his last full year with the Tribe.
We eventually reached our seats far up in the sky behind home plate and settled in for a delightful night of Yule-inflected baseball. Fausto Carmona and Jeff Niemann were on the mound for the Indians and Rays, respectively, and both pitched well enough to keep things at an anemic 2-1 Indians at the end of the fifth.
Temperatures had started to drop, and there had been a threat of rain all day, but at the end of the fifth, the grounds crew suddenly hustled out and tarped the infield before any rain had actually begun to fall. We made our way up to the rafters and resettled in just as thick black clouds came racing in from the lake. Rain suddenly poured from the sky, literally like someone had turned on a tap—it's a cliché to say that, but that's what it looked like. I can't help that the world is sometimes as boring as our words for it.
And then things really got weird. While the rain came sheeting down, and the sky darkened and darkened, the Indians decided to show Rudolph, the Red-Nosed Reindeer on the scoreboard, next to a live feed from the Twins / Orioles game in Baltimore.
Timing helped create the sour vibe last year. I visited just after the trade deadline and many fans were disgusted that the franchise had let so much talent go. This year, fans are excited by their 23-year-old centerfielder, Andrew McCutchen, playing in his first full season. Third baseman Pedro Alvarez, who was called up mid-June and then sent back down to Triple-A after struggling, has figured it all out in July, hitting seven home runs to date. So, without any delusions about winning the division, the Pirates fans are pretty excited.
The organization does a nice job of connecting past excitement to the present. There are three bronze statues outside the stadium, of Honus Wagner, Willie Stargell and Roberto Clemente. (Efforts are under way to possibly add a fourth statue, Bill Mazeroski, a historical figure for sure, but isn’t there a greater Pirate?) The statues jump off their pedestals to help masted ships fend off an attack from the visiting team in a video before each game. (Although there is a whole court memorializing the historic Negro League teams in Pittsburgh, players like Satchel Paige don’t figure in the mythology.) Another set a videos during play have current players watching film from the past, then ripping the screen down to reveal the live game feed. There is greatness in the past, but now it’s time to play in the present. If the Pirates ever have a winning season again, the loyal fans will erupt.
Before the game, I spent a couple hours at the Warhol Museum, mostly in the “Twisted Pair” exhibition. Some of the juxtapositions of work by Marcel Duchamp and Andy Warhol seemed like nothing more than coincidence. In other cases the evidence points to influence and imitation. I found it most interesting when the two artists explored the same ideas, but apparently independently.
Friday, 7/23: Cleveland Indians / Tampa Bay RaysSaturday, 7/24: Lake County Captains / Peoria ChiefsSunday, 7/25: Mahoning Valley Scrappers / State College SpikesMonday, 7/26: Akron Aeros / Bowie BaySox